Trees Losing Leaves in Hard Soil

Q. Three days ago I dug eight 3-ft. by 3-ft. holes for trees. These holes were made in hardpan. I used a jackhammer to get down as far as I could tolerate before collapsing in a heap of protoplasm. I amended the soil properly and planted the trees, properly watered afterward to moisten, not drown. The tree leaves are drying up. I don’t know the tree type, my wife purchased. Next I planted crape myrtles, four of them in another area of the yard where the soil was not hard pan but was very moist. I still added amender. Alongside the crapes I planted rose trees, and now all of these crapes and roses are dying. What to do?
Fair Oaks, California

A. Hopefully, when you say “amended”, you don’t mean adding fertilizer to the hole before planting. That will burn the roots in a heartbeat. Only organic fertilizer like Organo, manure, or Milorganite should be added to the bottom of a planting hole.

If you planted in hardpan, the hole you dug had to be at least three times the width of the rootball, or the tree will die when the roots hit the hardpan. We have a hardpan here in Florida called Marl that is like that. The problem with hardpan is that the water stays in the hole you planted in, and doesn’t move out to the surrounding soil, so the roots eventually rot if you water too much or don’t expand the hole with time. I would have to know what kind of tree it is to tell you why it is dropping leaves. Some trees, like ficus, naturally drop leaves if they are moved from one place to another. Some other trees drop leaves when their watering is changed. You might have an air pocket in the hole where you planted it. Scatter a cup of Epsom salts around the top of the tree, out to where you dug the hole. This will help the roots get established. ONLY ADD EPSOM SALTS ONCE. Take your shovel handle and go around the tree poking as many holes as you can to make sure all the soil has settled in around the roots. Stick the hose down into the soil around the tree in several places and let the water run into the ground. Do this every other day for two weeks, and you should see some improvement.

About the crepe myrtles, they need well-drained soil. They are drowning. Crepe myrtles cannot stand boggy soil. They grow here wonderfully well in our native sand.

Deborah Aldridge
Visit my blogs Green Lasagna, The Consummate Gardener, Lite Living

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Posted in defoliation, plant maintenance, trees | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Rabbits Eating Wave Petunias

Q. Something is eating my Wave petunias. Not sure what it is. They are torn in the middle of the stem, like something is gnawing them?
Jacksonville, Illinois

A. Thanks for growing Wave Petunias. My best guess is the problem you have is rabbits. I have a rabbit problem in my Aurora, Illinois, subdivision so I’ve seen all kinds of rabbit damage. Sometimes they consume a plant to the ground; sometimes just the flowers, and sometimes they sever the stem, decide they don’t like the taste and leave the cut piece behind.

To combat rabbit browsing of my Wave Petunias I have, for the past two years, fashioned individual cylindrical chicken wire fences for each plant. I hold them in place with stakes made from wire hangers. The cages stay in place until the petunias reach a size that I feel will outpace any rabbit damage. In fact, I’ve decided to take the cages off tonight. I store the fences flat and use them year after year. It doesn’t look real nice for a few weeks, but it works.

If the Wave Petunias are well rooted and still have some leaves they will recover in time and actually be fuller and denser, assuming the rabbits leave them alone.

If it’s not rabbits, then it may be cutworms. They are a larva (caterpillar) of a moth that generally, but not always, sever the stems of plants at the soil line. They are more of a problem early in the spring and are particularly fond of young vegetable plants. They can be excluded by putting a cardboard, or foil collar around the base of each plant. Cutworms are easily controlled with either organic or conventional pesticides.

Hope that helps. Happy gardening,
Drew Effron
Ball Horticultural Company
www.Wave-Rave.com

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Pollinating Topsy Turvy Tomatoes

Q. I have three Topsy turvy tomato plants. I was wondering how to pollinate them? I have them in a screened-in porch.
-Summerville, South Carolina

A. Tomatoes “self pollinate” but the mechanism is tricky. Bees usually do the job but there shouldn’t “be” any bees on your porch! The pollen is up inside the flowers. Wind can dislodge the pollen so it meets the female part of the flower. But just to be sure, give them a quick shake… mid-day if possible.

Barbara Emerson
Have Green Thumb
Manchester, Massachusetts

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Aphids on Pumpkin Plants - Organic Control

Q. I have some pumpkin plants that are a few weeks old. They had become infested with aphids so I sprayed them with a home remedy that I found online, ( 1 part veg oil 3 parts water and a few drops mild dish soap.) Well the aphids are now gone but the plant I think is now dying. The edges of the leaves are turning brown and shriveling. I have some new sprouts in the same area and am worried for them. Is this damage due to the aphids (a virus of some sort?) or is this due to the spray or perhaps something different? Please let me know if there is anything I can do to save them or if I should just pull them to keep the rest of the garden safe. Thank you for your time.
-Mesa, Arizona

A. It is likely that the spray recipe you made is the culprit. Some soaps are pretty rough on plants. This kind of damage often shows up on leaf edges. The oil is intended to suffocate the soft-bodied aphids by blocking the breathing tubes in their skin. It also coats any eggs they may have laid. The soap is a spreader which helps disperse the oil. Sometimes spray damage is exacerbated by applying it when it is sunny and hot. It’s usually best to spray early in the morning before the sun is too strong. Based on the potion you made up I’d say you want to go with a low toxicity solution for your pests. I’d suggest you seek help at your local garden center. There are organic products specifically formulated for home garden use, many based on soap and salts. The pumpkins have been set back but before you give up on them leave them in another week and see if they push new growth.

Drew Effron
Ball Horticultural Company
www.Wave-Rave.com

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Planting Two Honeysuckles

Q. Can I put two different types/colors of honeysuckle vines beside each other against my lattice? I have a pink honeysuckle that has been in the ground for about seven weeks now and is doing great. I just bought an orange honeysuckle vine and am wondering if I could plant it beside the one I have. Would it look good with the pink and orange mixed together as is grows? Or should I find another place for the orange one? Thanks!
-Montreal, Quebec

A. It’s all a matter of individual taste. I happen to like orange and pink next to each other and use it extensively in my own garden. This color combination really jazzes up the garden. Other people hate it so it just depends on what you like.

Perennially,
Bobbie Schwartz
Bobbie’s Green Thumb
Shaker Heights, Ohio

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Winter-Flowering Honeysuckle

Q. I’ve been given a winter-flowering honeysuckle, and it’s been suggested that I plant it at the base of a (mature) apple tree. Would this be likely to cause either plant problems? My garden is directly south facing.
-London, United Kingdom

A. If your winter-flowering honeysuckle is Lonicera fragrantissima or Lonicera purpusii Winter Beauty they will grow to be a large shrub, probably 6-ft. tall and 8-ft. wide. If your apple tree has a high canopy and you don’t need to get up the trunk to pick them, then this won’t be a problem, as the Honeysuckle doesn’t mind some shade in summer. The main problem will be digging a large enough hole for the roots of the honeysuckle without damaging the tree roots, and if you are planting it now in June, keeping it well enough watered while it establishes.

They do smell fantastic in winter and early spring, and are great for getting bees into your garden very early in the season, so a great addition.

Claire Brown, Plant Passion
Advising gardeners & enhancing gardens in the Guildford and Horsley, UK area

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Sticky Substance on Bamboo

Q. I have two bamboo plants. One has a much smaller leaf than the other. One is a tree-like plant in the corner of two walls, and the other is a screen behind a small wall, which acts as a partition. I have noticed that the leaves on both plants have a very shiny sticky substance on. What is it and why is this happening?
-Warwick, United Kingdom

A. Without seeing the plants or photos it is difficult to say what types of bamboo they are. A sticky substance at this time of year tends to be honeydew left by aphids or scale insects, although usually they don’t attack bamboo.

Are they healthy otherwise? Are there any overhanging trees that may be depositing honeydew on them? Is the sticky substance all over, or is it a “track” of stickiness?

If you could answer those questions I may be able to help further.

Claire Brown, Plant Passion
Advising gardeners & enhancing gardens in the Guildford and Horsley, UK area

Another answer!
A. The primary source of stickiness on plants is Aphids…any sign of an infestation? If not, keep an eye on the plant and if it seems like the plants are suffering, you can treat for aphids (insecticidal soap is good). In the meantime, try spraying it off with a hose.

Barbara Emerson, Have Green Thumb
Manchester, Massachusetts

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Removing Thistle

Two very good answers to this question. Read on!

Q. Thistles have taken over one of my flowerbeds. I have pulled them, sprayed them and even tried preen. Nothing stops them from coming back. Help! Does anyone know how to rid a bed from thistles? Thank you!
-Southborough, Massachusetts

A. The only thing I’ve found that controls thistle, and it does it outstandingly, is Lontrel. I don’t know if this is available on the consumer market or not. Look for Lontrel or Confront (same compound: maybe different formulation: I don’t know). Anyway, just a little spritz on the leaves from a spray bottle knocked mine out totally, never to return. Don’t put it on anything else, although it doesn’t seem to harm my turfgrass. If I get it where there are other good plants under it or next to it, I don’t spray it: I don nitrile gloves and rub it on the thistle leaves.

-Denny Blew, BlewLabel Perennials
Bridgeton, New Jersey

A. Next to rabbits, thistle is my garden nemesis No. 2. Thistle is very resistant to all but the most powerful herbicides and the fact that they often grow in and amongst desirable plants sometimes makes that option impractical. Other than just being ornery, they spread underground by rhizomes, so cultivating makes them worse and pulling them out is difficult…and painful. My solution is labor intensive and may be impractical depending on the size of the affected area: using a trowel loosen the soil around each weed and remove with as much root as possible. You need to do this habitually until either you or the weeds run out of energy.

Drew Effron, Ball Horticultural Company
www.wave-rave.com

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Zucchini Blossom Drop

Q. 

I put in a NEW vegetable garden this year. I tiled in a small amount of aged horse manure and a small amount of garden soil. My zucchini plants are small but there are lots of blossoms on them, but the blossoms fall off and there is no fruit growing. The plants are also very yellow in color instead of being nice and dark green. Do you think that there is too much nitrogen in my soil or could it be something else. If it is a nitrogen problem, what is the solution? Lime?


-Chesapeake, Virginia

A. It is normal for early flower to fall off. They are often male and those fall off whether they have fertilized or not. Female flowers will have a bulge at the base—that is how you can tell the difference!

It would be best to test your soil to see if it needs nitrogen or has too much. In the meantime, you could try adding some nitrogen fertilizer and see what happens. My guess is that it is more likely there isn’t enough. If there was too much nitrogen it is more likely that you would have lots of leaves and very few flowers!!

If there is too much, it will be easily washed away with lots of irrigation. That is the problem with plants getting enough nitrogen, it’s hard to maintain enough in the soil.

-Barbara Emerson, Have Green Thumb
Manchester, Massachusetts

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Trimming Ornamental Grasses

This question has two answers. Read on!

Q. I planted ornamental grass (blue) last year. This year it has grown like wild, and some had already gone to seed this week (June 9th, zone 5). I am a bit impulsive in nature and saw that seeds were falling everywhere all over my garden, so I cut my beautiful blue grass down, down, down so that it only stands a foot height. I cut off a lot! Now I am regretting, it looks pretty with the blue and golden seed spikes but I was paranoid about it spreading all over my flower garden! So, what I want to know now is did I wreck it and what can I do the rectify?
-Ossipee, New Hampshire

A. This has been the perfect growing season, so far, in Zone 5 for the most of the smaller ornamental grasses. From your description, it sounds like you either have a variety of Festuca Grass, such as ‘Elijah Blue’ (Blue Fescue) or Helictotrichon sempervirens (Blue Oat Grass). It’s also possible that it is a variety of Carex called ‘Blue Zinger’.

In any event, you did not ‘wreck’ the plant, you just gave it a slight attitude adjustment. As any of these smaller grasses flower (go to seed), simply cut the stalks if you do not like them. The varieties I mentioned above are generally sterile seeds and will not create new plants in your landscape. The seed heads can be insightly tho for some.

Give your grass a couple of waterings with a good liquid Plant Starter, (like a liquid 3-10-3) and the plant should recover, all be it a little smaller this year.

Todd A. Efing, Van Putte Gardens

Rochester, New York

www.vanputte.com


And another answer!
A. I think the grass will come back in a few weeks, not as large as before but I doubt that you have killed it. I question is if this particular plant is in the right place in your garden, if you are concerned that it will seed all over the place. You need to decide if you really like the look of the blue grassy leaves with golden flower spikes or if you would prefer another plant in that space. Of course you can always cut off the flower spikes but that is a lot of work and doesn’t really solve the problem.
Ruth Rogers Clausen, horticulturist
New York

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