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	<title>Ask a Garden Question</title>
	<atom:link href="http://askagardenquestion.com/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://askagardenquestion.com</link>
	<description>Answers for All Your Garden Questions</description>
	<pubDate>Sat, 25 Jul 2009 11:42:35 +0000</pubDate>
	
	<language>en</language>
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			<item>
		<title>Climbing Vines</title>
		<link>http://askagardenquestion.com/climbing-vines</link>
		<comments>http://askagardenquestion.com/climbing-vines#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Jul 2009 11:42:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ellen Wells</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[garden design]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[honeysuckle]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[hydrangea]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[vines]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[climbing hydrangea]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[climbing vines]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://askagardenquestion.com/?p=316</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Q.  What climbing vine would you suggest to grow on a trellis attached to a limestone house facing a south and a west wall?
Columbus, Indiana
A. There are a few controlled growth honeysuckles that would work, such as John Clayton, Blanch Sandman or Goldflame. Also, the climbing Hydrangeas such as Hydrangea petiolaris and Schizophragma hydrangenoides.
Denny [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Q.</strong>  What climbing vine would you suggest to grow on a trellis attached to a limestone house facing a south and a west wall?<br />
Columbus, Indiana</p>
<p><strong>A</strong>. There are a few controlled growth honeysuckles that would work, such as John Clayton, Blanch Sandman or Goldflame. Also, the climbing Hydrangeas such as <em>Hydrangea petiolaris</em> and <em>Schizophragma hydrangenoides</em>.<br />
Denny Blew, BlewLabel Perennials<br />
Bridgeton, New Jersey</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Pruning Rhododendrons</title>
		<link>http://askagardenquestion.com/pruning-rhododendrons</link>
		<comments>http://askagardenquestion.com/pruning-rhododendrons#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Jul 2009 11:38:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ellen Wells</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[plant maintenance]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[pruning]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[rhododendron]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[rhododendrons]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://askagardenquestion.com/?p=314</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Q. I have two very large rhododendrons that I planted in front of my windows 30 years ago, not realizing that they would grow so big that they would eventually swallow my house! They are a little cramped and I believe would be happier in the back yard. Do you think this is a good [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Q.</strong> I have two very large rhododendrons that I planted in front of my windows 30 years ago, not realizing that they would grow so big that they would eventually swallow my house! They are a little cramped and I believe would be happier in the back yard. Do you think this is a good idea or would the transplant be too traumatic for such established plants? I am also concerned that the roots may have grown under the front steps &#8230;. I would like to replace the front walk anyway but had not planned to replace the steps&#8230;. If we move the rhodys, should we wait until fall or is it OK to do this now, since the blooming is quite over? Thank you!<br />
Saugus, Massachusetts</p>
<p><strong>A.</strong> Would you ever consider a serious pruning of the rhodys?  They can take it and it would be a lot easier than transplanting.  It will take a couple of years to look good again but possibly worth the wait.<br />
If you do decide to move them, definitely wait until the fall…<br />
Barbara Emerson<br />
Have Green Thumb<br />
Manchester, Massachusetts</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Late Start in the Vegetable Garden</title>
		<link>http://askagardenquestion.com/late-start-in-the-vegetable-garden</link>
		<comments>http://askagardenquestion.com/late-start-in-the-vegetable-garden#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Jul 2009 11:37:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ellen Wells</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[garden design]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[plant maintenance]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[vegetables]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[plowing]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[vegetable garden]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://askagardenquestion.com/?p=312</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Q.   I’m getting a late start to plowing my garden. We had heavy rains in the spring and I was unable to finish plowing as the garden is in a low area. I realize that it is to late for most crops, however I’m wanting to plant greens for the fall which I [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Q.</strong>   I’m getting a late start to plowing my garden. We had heavy rains in the spring and I was unable to finish plowing as the garden is in a low area. I realize that it is to late for most crops, however I’m wanting to plant greens for the fall which I understand should be planted by mid August. This is my first garden, however the area has been plowed years ago when my father (now deceased) had a garden. My question is, how deep does one need to plow? I’m just planting greens now as I mentioned, however will plant other crops next spring. My row tiller works well and have gone over the ground several times, but need to know what depth the ground should be plowed and how to measure this. Thanks in advance.<br />
Conway, Arkansas</p>
<p><strong>A. </strong>This question brings up questions for me.  First, if the garden is in a low area, you may have problems in the future with flooding.  Is there any spot you can use that will be on higher ground?  Over time, drainage changes and it may have been different for your Dad.<br />
Re plowing, there is a whole new philosophy of gardening that says you shouldn’t plow the soil each year.  It just turns up the week seeds and leads to more weeds as they get exposed to the sun and germinate.  I have found this to be true in my garden.  I make 3 ft. wide raised beds by digging out the soil in the rows between beds and putting it on the planting beds.  Once you do this, it is simply a matter of adding compost to the top of the beds in the spring, missing it in to the soil lightly and then planting.<br />
All of this said, this first year, it sounds like you have tilled enough…before you plant, I’d do a soil test to see what the soil in the garden might need to adjust the organic matter level and pH.</p>
<p>Barbara Emerson<br />
Have Green Thumb<br />
Manchester, Massachusetts</p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Devil&#8217;s Ivy</title>
		<link>http://askagardenquestion.com/devils-ivy</link>
		<comments>http://askagardenquestion.com/devils-ivy#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Jul 2009 11:35:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ellen Wells</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[groundcover]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[houseplants]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[invasives]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Devil's ivy]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[pothos]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://askagardenquestion.com/?p=310</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Q. I have Devils Ivy, Would it be invasive? In zone 9, Florida, with sandy soil. Also, is it possible to grow it in a pot its entire life, even when it gets huge?
Marion County, Florida
A. The Devil&#8217;s Ivy is also known as Pothos which is a desirable plant. It grows best in the shade [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Q.</strong> I have Devils Ivy, Would it be invasive? In zone 9, Florida, with sandy soil. Also, is it possible to grow it in a pot its entire life, even when it gets huge?<br />
Marion County, Florida</p>
<p><strong>A.</strong> The Devil&#8217;s Ivy is also known as Pothos which is a desirable plant. It grows best in the shade both inside the house and outside. You can grow Pothos in most soil conditions and it can stay in a pot indefinitely. The longer it is in that pot the more water and fertilizer it will need. I have pothos in my back yard being used as a ground cover. It also will grow up trees. When it grows up the leaves get very big, as big as a foot wide. </p>
<p>Kevin Riley<br />
Rockledge Gardens<br />
Florida</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Lilacs Not Blooming</title>
		<link>http://askagardenquestion.com/lilacs-not-blooming</link>
		<comments>http://askagardenquestion.com/lilacs-not-blooming#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Jul 2009 11:32:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ellen Wells</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[lilac]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[pruning]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[shrubs]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[lilac blooms]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[lilacs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://askagardenquestion.com/?p=308</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Q. I have lilac bushes that haven&#8217;t bloomed in two years. What should I do?
Norwalk, Connecticut
A. Are your lilacs planted in full sun?  They bloom very poorly in the shade.
Are your lilacs old with lots of suckers that have not been thinned?  A plethora of suckers could be using up all the energy [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Q.</strong> I have lilac bushes that haven&#8217;t bloomed in two years. What should I do?<br />
Norwalk, Connecticut</p>
<p><strong>A. </strong>Are your lilacs planted in full sun?  They bloom very poorly in the shade.<br />
Are your lilacs old with lots of suckers that have not been thinned?  A plethora of suckers could be using up all the energy of the plant on making leaves instead of flowers.</p>
<p>Perennially,<br />
Bobbie Schwartz<br />
Bobbie’s Green Thumb<br />
Shaker Heights, Ohio</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Unwanted Ornamental Grasses in Yard</title>
		<link>http://askagardenquestion.com/unwanted-ornamental-grasses-in-yard</link>
		<comments>http://askagardenquestion.com/unwanted-ornamental-grasses-in-yard#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 21:35:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ellen Wells</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[garden design]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[ornamental grass]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[clethera]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[spirea latifolia]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://askagardenquestion.com/?p=306</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Q. I&#8217;m back living at the family home and my Dad had planted some tall grass in front of house, in front of the evergreen bushes next to area sump pump drains out. It gets really tall and is ugly. What can I do to get rid of and what can I put in its [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Q.</strong> I&#8217;m back living at the family home and my Dad had planted some tall grass in front of house, in front of the evergreen bushes next to area sump pump drains out. It gets really tall and is ugly. What can I do to get rid of and what can I put in its place? It also attracts a weed, which grows with it. It&#8217;s put in like a border beside the walk to the front door. So it’s all together not spread out. Rest of front is lawn (or a lot of clover) as it wasn&#8217;t taken care of. I can live with the lawn for now but this tall grass looks very out of place and I&#8217;m afraid to just pull it up w/out replacing w some nice plantings.<br />
Wellesley Hills, Massachusetts</p>
<p><strong>A.</strong> It sounds like your Dad had good intentions, but this is a case of wrong plant, right place. It&#8217;s a little difficult to assess your landscape problem without a picture. Let&#8217;s start with the conditions. The sump pump drain probably means the area stays damp. It&#8217;s unlikely that the grasses attract a particular weed, but rather, the weed thrives under the prevailing conditions. If you have a more suitable location for the tall grass you might try to transplant it. You don&#8217;t necessarily need the whole root ball, but can cut it apart into segments and plant the pieces. In any case, if the grasses are well established it&#8217;s going to be tough work. If you choose to transplant the grass, water it every other day for two to three weeks and it should survive on its own (unless you have a prolonged dry period).</p>
<p>Now, what to put in its place is the tough question without seeing the site. I assume you want something to grow lower than the evergreens and not hide them as I supposed the grass did? You might consider moisture tolerant, flowering indigenous plants such as: Sweet Pepper bush (<em>Clethera</em>) or Meadow Sweet (<em>Spirea latifolia</em>), which grows to about 4 feet. There are native perennials that attract birds and bees and are adapted to wet sites also: Cardinal Flower and Bee Balm (careful it spreads aggressively). </p>
<p>Hope these ideas help. You might also seek advice from a full service independent garden center.I&#8217;d suggest you bring them a picture. I know there are some great ones in your area of Massachusetts. They can also address your clover problem, which is pretty easy to control.</p>
<p>Drew Effron<br />
Ball Horticultural Company<br />
deffron@ballhort.com<br />
Visit our Website!<br />
<a href="http://www.wave-rave.com">www.wave-rave.com</a></p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Combining Autumn Clematis &amp; Honeysuckle Vines</title>
		<link>http://askagardenquestion.com/combining-autumn-clematis-honeysuckle-vines</link>
		<comments>http://askagardenquestion.com/combining-autumn-clematis-honeysuckle-vines#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 21:33:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ellen Wells</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[garden design]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[honeysuckle]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[vines]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[autumn clematis]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[climbing vines]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://askagardenquestion.com/?p=304</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Q. I have an arch and side trellises in my garden. Last year I planted Autumn Joy (white) clematis on the side trellises. This year, for color, I planted pink honeysuckle to grow around the arch. Should I keep the clematis and honeysuckle separate? I&#8217;m afraid the clematis will overwhelm the honeysuckle. Am I right? [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Q.</strong> I have an arch and side trellises in my garden. Last year I planted Autumn Joy (white) clematis on the side trellises. This year, for color, I planted pink honeysuckle to grow around the arch. Should I keep the clematis and honeysuckle separate? I&#8217;m afraid the clematis will overwhelm the honeysuckle. Am I right? On the other hand, it would be nice to have flowers in the fall on both the arch ad trellises.<br />
Connecticut</p>
<p><strong>A.</strong> Your question actually poses different thoughts. Always remember, if you like the look do it. No one else is living at your home and looking at the combinationof plants but you.</p>
<p>In general, both of the vines you have are aggressive, quick growers.  I would suspect that the two will intermix and would be a nice combination.</p>
<p>I think there is more of a possibility that the Honeysuckle would overtake the Clematis. So, my recommendation would be to just nip and prune either plants as it starts to grow where you don&#8217;t want it or if it starts to overtake the other plant.  Both vines can handle pruning. </p>
<p>Todd A. Efing, CNLP Nursery Manager <br />
Van Putte Gardens <br />
Rochester, New York</p>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Banana Peppers Dropping Flowers</title>
		<link>http://askagardenquestion.com/banana-peppers-dropping-flowers</link>
		<comments>http://askagardenquestion.com/banana-peppers-dropping-flowers#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 21:31:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ellen Wells</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[vegetables]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[banana peppers]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[flower drop]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://askagardenquestion.com/?p=302</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Q. My banana pepper plants are dropping there flowers and then the buds turn yellow and fall off. Also the plants do not seem to be growing anymore. Last year same thing happened for a couple weeks, but the plants grew amazingly tall and lots of peppers, any clue why their dropping the buds?
Waukesha, Wisconsin
A. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Q.</strong> My banana pepper plants are dropping there flowers and then the buds turn yellow and fall off. Also the plants do not seem to be growing anymore. Last year same thing happened for a couple weeks, but the plants grew amazingly tall and lots of peppers, any clue why their dropping the buds?<br />
Waukesha, Wisconsin</p>
<p><strong>A.</strong> It sounds like your peppers are suffering from a condition called Blossom Rot.  When you have season that has wide fluctuations of temperatures, i.e. 50 degree up to 80 degree and back and forth, the flowers do not always have time to pollinate.  The &#8216;buds&#8217; then are not fertilized and simply fall off.  The overall yellowing is also an indication of the soil and conditions being too cool and damp. </p>
<p>Once &#8216;Summer&#8221; hits its stride and you have nice, hot consistent weather, your plants will spike growth and start producing like last year.</p>
<p>Todd A. Efing, CNLP Nursery Manager <br />
Van Putte Gardens <br />
Rochester, New York</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Insects in Soil</title>
		<link>http://askagardenquestion.com/insects-in-soil</link>
		<comments>http://askagardenquestion.com/insects-in-soil#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 21:29:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ellen Wells</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[insects]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[pest control]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://askagardenquestion.com/?p=300</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Q. We have tiny (pinhead sized) brownish/reddish bugs everywhere in our soil. The soil is from Miracle Grow. I don&#8217;t think these bugs are clover or spider mites but they are around the same size. We&#8217;ve noticed some &#8220;silvering&#8221; and premature dropping of our leaves, but no mite-like webbing or discoloration. What are these bugs, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Q.</strong> We have tiny (pinhead sized) brownish/reddish bugs everywhere in our soil. The soil is from Miracle Grow. I don&#8217;t think these bugs are clover or spider mites but they are around the same size. We&#8217;ve noticed some &#8220;silvering&#8221; and premature dropping of our leaves, but no mite-like webbing or discoloration. What are these bugs, and what soil would you recommend getting?<br />
Englewood, Colorado</p>
<p>A. The insect could be a number of options. The best recommendation is to either take an insect or two in a jar to your local garden center for an exact identification or send me a photo. I would be happy to ID it for you.</p>
<p>Insect controls are like prescription drugs, not every product controls every insect just like not every drug cures every disease.</p>
<p>Todd A. Efing, CNLP  Nursery Manager <br />
Van Putte Gardens <br />
Rochester, New York</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Zucchini Blossoms</title>
		<link>http://askagardenquestion.com/zucchini-blossoms</link>
		<comments>http://askagardenquestion.com/zucchini-blossoms#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 21:28:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ellen Wells</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[plant maintenance]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[vegetables]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[zucchini]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[zucchini blossoms]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://askagardenquestion.com/?p=298</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Q. Zucchini: Once the male blossom does its job of pollinizing, and fruit is set on female, can the male blossom be removed? Can too many males foil the maturing of the fruit of the female?
Cave Junction, Oregon
A. Leaving the male flowers on your zucchini will have no effect either way. Since they are a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Q.</strong> Zucchini: Once the male blossom does its job of pollinizing, and fruit is set on female, can the male blossom be removed? Can too many males foil the maturing of the fruit of the female?<br />
Cave Junction, Oregon</p>
<p><strong>A. </strong>Leaving the male flowers on your zucchini will have no effect either way. Since they are a male and do not turn into a seed or fruit, no energy is used by the plant after the flower is completely spent. It would simply be a cosmetic treatment if you remove them.</p>
<p>Todd A. Efing, CNLP  Nursery Manager <br />
Van Putte Gardens <br />
Rochester, New York</p>
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